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Ever asked yourself why some suits are $400 and others $1,500?

Let us educate you on the difference in the price tag and the perfect suit for you.

The perfect suit for you is not going to be the perfect suit for me, your brother or your uncle. At SV we offer so many different options when it comes to customising your suit to the exact specifications you want.

One of the key considerations that clients are not educated on is the building block of the suit being the construction of it. There are 3 options to choose from being; fused, half and full canvas construction. The construction of the garment is a key ingredient.

We’ve made a guide for you to help clear up the differences of suit constructions available, so you can be confident in the choices you’re making when investing in a made-to-measure piece.

Suit Vault Fabrics - accessories

Fused Suit Construction (also referred to as Glued Construction)

Suit Vault Suit Construction information

If you own an off-the-rack suit you should be familiar with these types. Fused is the cheapest option available and for a good reason, they are literally held together with glue! A fused suit means that the outside fabric layer is fused (glued) to the inside lining and other construction pieces. The fusing is what provides the jacket its “shape”.

These type of makes require fewer materials, are easy to assemble and therefore cost less to produce. With anything in life there are gives and takes, this lower priced product comes with one disadvantage-quality.

Over time glue is more susceptible to failure than stitching. Dry cleaning this construction can also cause bubbling. these makes weren’t designed to last a long time hence the cheap price tag.


  • Inexpensive when compared to canvassed suit jackets.
  • Lightweight as fewer materials used to construct the jacket.


  • Look stiff – they don’t conform to your body like canvassed jacket.
  • Risk of delimitation or bubbling in the chest/lapels of your jacket.

Half Canvas Suit Construction (Best of Both Worlds)

Suit Vault Suit Construction information - in and out

A half canvassed suit features elements of both a fused and fully canvassed construction. In terms of price and quality this is the most cost effective option.

A half canvassed suit jacket has a thin layer of fusing on the front of the jacket and a layer of canvassing from the shoulder down through the chest. The thin layer of fusing provides the perfect amount of structure to look good and hold the suit together. While the canvas layer provides all the quality in feel and appearance unique to canvassed suit jackets.

You are then getting the quality of a canvassed suit at a price point between fused and fully canvassed. The canvassing gives the jacket a natural drape on your chest and lapel. The fusing is thinner and with that not as stiff and provides a good cost savings!


  • Better drape and shape in the chest and lapel compared to a fused suit.
  • Less expensive than a fully canvassed suit.


  • More expensive than a fused construction.
  • Slightly more stiff than a full canvas construction.


Full Canvas Suit Construction (Beast mode)

Suit Vault Suit Construction information - materials

A properly hand constructed full-canvassed jacket means business; you will be hard pressed to find a better quality jacket.

Our full-canvassed jackets are hand constructed with canvas fabric that spans the entire inside of the front panel and lapels of the jacket. The canvas acts as the middle layer, the structural layer of the jacket and is sewn in loosely so that it can float freely inside the jacket while you wear it. The end product is a high quality suit jacket that drapes over your body shape naturally, adjusting and conforming to your every move. Full canvassed suits continue to conform to your body every time you wear it and continue to look better each time you wear it.

Full canvassed jackets are the most expensive because they require the most touch and time from a highly skilled tailor to create. In return for the higher price, you’ll get a world-class suit that starts to mould to you and will last a very long time if you take care of it.


  • Conforms to your body and continues to fit better with time.
  • The best jacket structure and body drape available in a suit.
  • No delimitation or bubbling issues – ever!


  • Generally the most expensive piece you can buy, but it’s worth feeling and looking your best.
  • It can be heavy, so if this is for your wedding and you are getting married in Summer this may not be the right construction for you.

What is the difference in cost?

A fused made-to-measure suit with us starts at $849, Half Canvas $999 and Full Canvas $1200. The prices ultimately depend on the fabric you choose.

If you would like to explore our made to measure service, you can book in for an exploratory chat by making an appointment here.  Or you are welcome to also walk in!

Alternatively, should you enjoy reading more, you can learn more about our made-to-measure service here.

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