
Men’s Fit Guide – How Should a Suit Fit?
Suiting is all about the fit
At Suit Vault, we offer Perth men tailed suits, and we believe the fit of a suit is the most important factor, probably more so than the style and quality of the material!
By following these 6 simple fitting guidelines, you’ll ensure you always look dapper in your suit. These rules are for every single guy, no matter your age or body type. A well-fitting suit looks good on everybody.
Jacket Sleeve Length
Just Right
The jacket’s sleeves end at the wrist. This allows about half an inch (1-1.5 cm) of shirt cuffs to show. It’s a timeless rule of thumb.
Too Short
The sleeves end well above the wrist, so there’s a lot of shirts visible. You might be mistaken for your little brother’s jacket.
Too Long
If your Perth Suit jacket sleeve is too long and can obscure the shirt sleeve completely. Remember that sleeves are for your arms and gloves are for your hands.
Jacket Length
An Italian mural can be found on the sidewall of Reda’s fabric plant in Biella, Italy. It reads “Il Cambiamento E Inevitabile”. This means that “change is inevitable”. There is no greater certainty of change than with in fashion.
Jacket lengths are an excellent example of this slow, steady, and cyclical change. This guide is not about telling you how long to wear your Perth Suit jacket, it’s about helping decide what’s right, so you get a quality tailored suit in Perth.
The Rule of Thumb
The rule of thumb is to have your jacket reach the tip of the thumb with your hand relaxed. If you curl your fingers, you can cup the jacket’s hem in your hand for a classic and elegant look. This length is suitable for a medium-wide collar, lapel, and suits taller men with larger frames. But as stated at the beginning, change is inevitable. This length will be the fashion length again. It’s just a matter of time.
The Modern
A good jacket length should be in line with your knuckles for a modern, contemporary look that can suit all types of collars and lapels. This length is flattering for all sizes of men and has an enduring appeal. It is neither too modern nor too traditional.
Short And Sharp
You’ll see that fashion changes quickly if you have visited any of the men’s style blogs on formal wear Perth online over the past couple years. Short is in. It’s a great look that makes any navy blazer seem younger, more casual, and cooler, but it must also be slim.
This length is colloquially called a “bum freezer”. It works well with a very small trouser.
Jacket Collar
Altering you suit jacket in Perth is quite common and often straight forward. However, altering the collar can be extremely difficult, so if your off-the-rack jackets all have a collar that is too big or small, then a made to measure suit is usually the best option for you to get the perfect fit.
Just Right
The collar of the jacket should be perfectly aligned with your shirt’s collar. Perfetto!
Too Small
The jacket’s collar will ride up your shirt collar. It will feel tight, uncomfortable, and restrictive.
Too Big
The collar of the jacket is slightly higher than the collar of your shirt, creating a gap you can insert your finger into. If your posture is extremely “forward”, i.e. Instead of a normal upright position, your head tilts inward (this is common among older men and very tall men).
Trouser Seat
With tailored suits in Perth, your posterior (bottom and bum) is known as your “seat”. Traditional methods are still used to make trousers. Inlays in the centre back and in leg allow us to get the right fit for you, even though our tailors might have to make a few adjustments.
Just Right
If they fit perfectly around the waist and drape smoothly without giving you a wedgie or excess cloth.
Too Small
They fit perfectly around your waist, but they are too tight across the seat and give you a wedgie. You can either let the inlays out to make the trousers more spacious or increase the size to make the pants fit you better.
Too Large
They fit perfectly around your waist, but they are too large around your hips and almost certainly through your thighs. You can either take the trousers in or go down a size. This makes the trouser slimmer around the thighs, but we will let the waist out so they still fit perfectly.
Hem And Cuff
You should always have your suit pants hemmed to allow for a slight break. It is sharper and more polished than a full hem and it looks better. No break at the hem is only okay for certain situations, not for everyday wear. A slight break works for everyone.
When it comes to cuffing your suit pans there are very few times, we would argue almost never, when it is necessary.
Jacket Waist
Just Right
Create a slim and flattering silhouette by doing the top button up, with the jacket not too tight, fitting close to the body.
Too Small
The button pulls on the jacket when it’s up. This causes the jacket ride up a bit and distorts lapels. Overall, you look like a man who has outgrown his suit. Not a good look.
Too Large
You will know your jacket is too big at the waist from the moment you put it on. This jacket is not only less flattering but also less comfortable than one that fits well.
Jacket Shoulders
Just Right
The shoulders line is straight, and the sleeves extend just enough to reach past your bicep.
Too Small
The shoulders are pulled out of form and the sleeves cut in above your biceps.
Too Large
The shoulder is covered in excess fabric. The sleeve’s top extends past your bicep.
The Perfect Tailored Suit in Perth
You’ll need to make some adjustments to ensure that your tailored suit fits properly, regardless of whether it is made-to-measure or off-the-rack.
Even if your suit fits perfectly at first, you may lose or gain weight over time. You might want to retouch your suit for a better fit. It is easier to find the perfect fit for all these Perth formal wear garments if you know a good tailor in your local area, and even better to choose a quality tailor than just the closest, as the extra effort can be very beneficial for you and your appearance.
Let us help you find your perfect fit, contact Suit Vault today.